My insights, for what they’re worth…

Beograd is a bastion of Slavic culture that will wet the hedonistic appetite day or night, showcasing its Hapsburg architecture, Ottoman influence and Communist legacy. It has something for everyone with a healthy skew toward the glamorous wine & diner. In recent times, the “White City” has seen significant gentrification but by no means has it lost its grungy appeal. I’d argue Belgrade comes alive at night, and don’t the Serbs know it. Whether it is the romantic cobblestones and street music of Skadarlija or the floating nightclubs on the Danube, you won’t be bored once the sun goes down. 

Belgrade has had a rather tumultuous history going back to Roman Times. Attila the Hun ravaged the area during his reign, and in subsequent centuries, the city stared down the barrel of Empires and would be conquerors. In 1941, Hitler levelled the city in a devastating bombing campaign, and more recently, Belgrade was bombed by NATO forces for 78-days. The NATO bombardment of Serbia remains a bleeding wound that should be broached with sensitivity, the lingering effects of the catastrophic Balkan war can still be seen to this day.

First things first…small stuff, boring stuff. Taxis & Register

Where to stay…

As close to Knez Mihailova (the main walking street) as possible. Easy.

From here, the city’s best attractions, bars & restaurants are within walking distance. Our preferred option in European cities is Airbnb, however, we had a blast staying at the new Courtyard Marriott in Republic Square. You can read my review here. If you have some extra cash or are just stopping in for a few nights we’d highly recommend it. Any of the free walking tours listed on Tripadvisor are a good way to get your bearings and meet right out front of the hotel, in summer though, the tours can attract huge crowds so we found it was better to just go for a walkies, or get a paid tour.

If you plan on driving around Serbia, then staying outside the city might be a good idea as in-city parking is at a premium and many Airbnb’s just don’t have spaces. If that doesn’t dissuade you, a great explanation of city parking can be found here. There are some sweet Airbnb deals on entire houses outside the city but keep in mind, that public transport isn’t the greatest, so do consider hiring a car or getting comfortable using taxis.

 

We stayed with family in the idyllic woods outside Belgrade near the Avala Tower where it was quiet. Within walking distance, we found gourmet coffee shops, spectacular vegetable gardens, churches, and quaint villages. We enjoyed the nature throughout this area and thought it was a nice escape from the city. If you’re looking for something in-between, there are some amazing cabins along the Sava river that you can rent through Airbnb, and aren’t far from the city centre. Nice pic. Credit Nat 😉

 

Where to eat…

The area behind Knez Mihalova and down the hill toward the Sava River is a gorgeous collection of leafy streets known as “Silicon Valley” where people go to be seen. This is where pretty boys like Alex like to go. Here you will find high-end restaurants, wine bars, shops, apartments, smoothie stands, breakfast cafes, and coffee shops. If you’re in the area, I’d suggest dinner at the amazing Casa Nova, see my TripAdvisor review. In the same area, take a stroll down Skardarlija (skar-dar-lee-ya) in the picturesque old Bohemian quarter and eat at the “Tri Sesira” restaurant. We have eaten at Three Hats on every visit to Belgrade for its famous food, and its charm. See my TripAdvisor review. Skardarlija is a romantic destination where you’ll be taken in by the atmosphere and Serbian hospitality. Do not miss going here at night, even if it is just for a walk…

 

 

 

 

 

What to do…

If you need a place to cool down in summer, Ada Ciganlija is a good choice. It’s a long stretch of cafes and daybeds along the riverbank. The locals jokingly call it “Belgrade’s beach”…although, our friends told us not to swim in the water. Regardless, you will witness tanned, stunning people enjoying the water and the sun. There is also a crane where people bungee-jump over the river. It was morbidly fun sucking down a frothy whilst watching people chicken out at the top of the crane. The last time in Belgrade, we managed to get a private pontoon on the quieter part of the Sava where water skiing is popular. The girls especially liked it thanks to a shirtless Serbian Adonis who served us drinks and played the guitar between oiling up his abs and generally looking more handsome than everyone else.

Splavs. No, I don’t have something stuck in my throat. Splavs or “Splavoi” are debaucherous floating nightclubs on the river Sava and Danube. Think of the nicest nightclub you’ve ever been to, now imagine it on a river. I even saw one with a swimming pool on the dance floor… Now, I’m not much of a clubber but Splavs are a shitload of fun. Go here at least once, just to experience it. Seeing Kalemegadan fortress lit up at night while throwing back vodka is worth the price of admission. Well, tbh we didn’t pay, our family refused to let us pay for anything, they got us a booth where we had a bottle waiting on ice. Alexwas like the party conductor. These clubs have plenty of ventilation and the ones we frequented were open air, a massive plus since most Serbs are serious smokers. There are a couple of great Splav tours and it might be a good way to experience it all as getting to and from the Splavs can be difficult. Finally, be careful catching taxis after exiting the clubs, the bad eggs tend to gravitate here. A few years ago, Alex   had a horrible experience because he let his guard down and got in the wrong cab.

A lesser-known area for tourists is Zemun. It is also my favourite part of Belgrade.

One night, Vlada  and Marko decided we should go for a walk up the Danube. It was passed off as a short walk, so my missus wore going-out shoes. That short walk turned into an unforgettable six-hour stroll. There is a well-lit precinct starting from the famous Hotel “Jugoslavia” along the river to Zemun. Do yourself a favour and make this walk at night. You will see a different, more low-key side of Belgrade, and it’s a perfect walk for families and couples. Zemun reminded me of Austria in terms of architecture, but the atmosphere is distinctly Serbia. The Austro-Hungarian influence shows itself in the gorgeous riverside restaurants steeped in vines and colour.

The streets behind the beautifully rendered riverside buildings turn into polished, uneven stone leading up to Gardoš Tower at the top of the hill, badly damaged in the first world war but rebuilt and illuminated at night. It was nearby where Austro-Hungarian troops besieged Belgrade on the high ground in the 18th century. This is a spectacular position to find after dinner and from here you can see the entire city. Do it.

Ok, I wouldn’t normally include this, but If you’re looking to do some serious shopping, Ušće (ooosh-cheh) shopping Centre in Novi Belgrade (New Belgrade) is the best place we found. Ušće is over a main bridge and probably too far to walk from the city centre but it is modern, clean, and has everything. Importantly, Ušće is a bit of a refuge if you, one: want something to do in airconditioning, two: have a partner who simply must do some shopping in every European city even if they are all the same shops, and three: and most importantly, if you get sick of eating the heavy meat platters, Ušće has a food-court for cheap eats and a Vapiano if you want some reasonably priced pasta.

What to see…

 

 

Kalemegdan Fortress should be at the top of your list when visiting Belgrade. Inside you will find sprawling gardens, tennis courts, restaurants, ruins, a zoo, and a military history museum that I absolutely loved. Sections of the fortress are unsafe due to disrepair, so just be mindful of the signs posted around. You can read my in-depth Tripadvisor review here. There’s a little tourist train that can take you from the bottom to the top, handy if you’re with an elderly person or someone that has impaired mobility but if not, the walk is better. The museum takes you chronologically through Serbian history with the aid of wall maps, paintings, artifacts, and some serious war material. I’m totally nerding out here but I was stunned by the amount of Second World War memorabilia, specifically German equipment and medals. I jumped up and down like a little kid when I saw Russian T-34 tanks, Katyusha rocket launchers, German Panther and Tiger tanks on the grounds, as well as 88mm guns and other pieces in remarkable condition. If you’re a history nut check it out.

The Church of Saint Sava (featured at the top & above) is the largest Orthodox Church in the Balkans, only rivalled by the Church of St Peter in Moscow. Amazingly it has been under construction since the early part of the 20th century, the project hampered by wars and nearly forgotten until being resurrected in the mid-1980’s. To Serbs it is more than an astonishingly expensive church, it is a beacon of their orthodox faith, culture, and freedom. It is located in a beautiful part of Belgrade and not too far from Knez Mihailova, maybe a twenty-minute walk. You truly have to see it in person to appreciate the monumental scale of this wondrous structure. Even so, it is visible from any approach to the city. If you can, take a look inside during the daytime. The interior is still under construction but it may give you a snapshot of the end result envisioned by the designers. The church is beautifully lit at night and it is well worth making two trips just to see it illuminated.

The Avala tower sits high on Mount Avala and is the tallest tower in the Balkans. You can see it clearly from Belgrade, which only impresses it dominating height over the area. The telecommunications tower is a great source of pride for ordinary Serbs and was constructed with three legs, the symbol of a Serbian tripod chair. The original tower was destroyed in the NATO bombings in 1999 and the new tower was reconstructed taller and grander than the previous one with hefty donations and fundraising efforts from influential Serbs such as Novak Djokovic and Ana Ivanovic. The giant tower has an elevator that runs all the way up to the observation deck. THIS IS NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED. It took me ages to work up the nerve just to get in that bloody elevator to the top. (FYI, it was quick, it didn’t make any wired clunks and importantly it didn’t move about) The observation deck is a circle of full-length windows that lean outwards. Terrifying it was (ok, Yoda) But if you can get through the initial fear you will not regret it. The view of Belgrade and the surrounding provinces was breathtaking and everyone should treat themselves to an ice cream at the bottom of the tower afterwards like I did.

The Avala memorial was a truly unexpected surprise. Once we finished at the Avala Tower, Alex pointed through some trees to a path that led higher up the mountain. He said “It is nice up there. There are gardens and pretty things.” This was hugely understating the beauty of the area. Following the path, we found a homestead/restaurant at the base of a gravel parking lot where camera-wielding Asian tourists slowly filtering off behind the structure and into gardens that were immaculately maintained. Continuing up the mountain, we were in the midst of sprawling hedges, stoneworks, and then, at the peak, we came upon a truly incredible WW1 memorial dedicated to an Unknown Russian Soldier. It was set on a pyramid of stone in a grand plaza stretching out like a polished airstrip atop the mountain framed in lush pine trees. I can still see its beauty in my mind and remember the haunting solitude of the site. If you’re planning on visiting the Avala Tower I can’t recommend enough taking an hour to explore this visually striking memorial.

While it isn’t the first place on my list to visit, the Tito Museum is worth a look. To older Serbs born in the former Yugoslavia, Tito is a revered figure who held the old country together, and it is a fair viewpoint when one learns of the chaos that ensued after his passing. Tito’s tomb and the gardens are quite beautiful and if you’re a history nut like me, you can spend a few hours reading the statues and wall mounted histories of Tito and Communist Yugoslavia (printed in English). There is a small entry fee.

Final thoughts…

When I sit and think of Belgrade I hear cheeky Slavic voices and the raucous laughter around the restaurant as I explained Australian Rules Football with bread and salt & pepper shakers to these two idiots.

I remember fondly, the folk music, organic tomatoes, sweet watermelons, small bitter coffees, and stacks of cevapcici. Their was endless Nikšićo beer, and long walks down the city streets wondering what we might see next. I will always hold Belgrade in high regard, it is my happy place. The warmth and affection shown to me by complete strangers is hard to forget.

As a city, Belgrade delicately balances its grungy appeal and rebellious nature with a warm desire for fun, love, and food, but truly, the Belgradians are what makes this city so good. Its urban landscape weaves between its revered monuments in a fusion of old and new that only gets more appealing as the communist wallpaper is slowly peeled back. Its deeply nuanced history permeates through its streets and the people that live here exuding a proudly unified sense of being Serbian. Belgrade is by no means a cheap city, nor is it the prettiest city, rather, Belgrade stands unique and sits on the edge of a renaissance of its own design. Belgrade is an adventure well worth discovering, and I will be back.

 

Next in the Serbia series is Niš

Signing off.