“Niš is a happy little city in the southern heartland of Serbia. Home to a new wave of entrepreneurs, Niš showcases old Serbia without the flash and hustle of Belgrade. She chirps with a relaxed charm, and unashamedly holds firm to Serbia’s cultural uniqueness. I have grown to love Niš and the people that live there.”

Housekeeping: most people say it correctly but many say it like the French city, Nice. The š in Niš is pronounced with a strong SHH. (KNEE-SHH).

The “Nišians” are a hard-working bunch. They wake up early and stay up late. Their days are punctuated by coffee and cigarettes over hearty Serbian chit-chat. The caffeine and tobacco pit-stops are key to the rhythm of Serbia where the bonds of family, country, and food are strong. The art of holding a conversation is not lost on Serbs either, and they will quickly tell you how proud they are to call Niš their home. I remember fondly the gorgeous summer days, the music of Nišville, the Kafanas, and playing UNO with beers at luxurious private pools that anyone can pay to enter. There is a visible joy in southern Serbia that gives me hope for the future of Niš but the country’s third largest city has an almost ‘bastion at the gates’ feel to its lived-in streets, ingrained over centuries and reinforced by the proximity of Serbia’s breakaway province, Kosovo. A sense of duty and adherence to core Serbian values plays a crucial role in retaining the youth of Niš from seeking opportunities in Belgrade and abroad, although it’s a fight many are concerned they are losing, the ‘remainers’ have shown great fortitude in creating a better economy for the people of Niš and the city they love so much. But, between these serious topics, there is always time for an afternoon nap and ever more coffee. As a wise Serb once told me with smoke pulsing from his nose and a sharp grin, “There is always time for sleep. I love to sleep. But first, another Kafu.”

It’s hard to talk about Niš without touching on Kosovo. In the south, there is a silent mourning for the province that may never go away. Niš is a mere 50km from the province that split the entire south of Serbia in two and it still casts a bitter shadow to this day. When it broke away, an already fractured Yugoslavia led from Belgrade, moved in to secure its territorial integrity and safeguard the Serbian population therein, but the ensuing war for the province was savage, displacing the majority of Serbs and ethnic Albanians who lived there. To Serbs, Kosovo represents the ancestral cradle of their zealously defended Orthodox faith. The gorgeous province of Kosovo contains their most revered churches and monasteries, and many regard the loss as a dagger to their national pride and cultural identity. Without question, Kosovo is a partisan issue in Serbia, as it certainly must be in Albania. It is a zero-sum game where compromise is not possible.

I was captivated by a sign in downtown Niš that directed traffic to Belgrade and also Kosovo’s capital, Pristina. It is still so rooted in the Serbian consciousness that I suspect it may never be removed, and cynically, I suspect it remains as a middle finger to NATO. Many Nišians today were once from Kosovo, finding refuge from the hideous violence and wholesale destruction that tore it to pieces. My large adopted family grew up and lived in Kosovo before being driven from their homes, so it is fairly raw for them. These are good, honest people and I truly admire the way they have moved forward with their lives in a positive manner. The loss of generational homes and businesses in the knowledge you can never return is bloody sobering. I have strived to remain objective but it is hard when you know the face of the conflict. Regardless of political or ideological standpoints, it was the civilian population who suffered. Serbs and Albanians who had lived peacefully side-by-side for generations were the ones who lost the most.

Why you should travel to Niš…

So many reasons. For starters, Niš is a lovely little city with a quaint charm and an engrossing past. Niš has a thriving art scene and some very cute bars tucked away in its alleyways, not to mention it is where round Burek was created. (filo pastry filled with meat) It is a must-have with local bakeries selling it by the truckload and a vital tonic for a big night on the town.

As Serbia’s third largest city, it sits at the gateway to the southern Balkans and hums with a delightful market city rhythm. Its true drawcard is its heritage and historical significance to the region. Between the Roman, Ottoman, and WW2 eras, Niš is a multilayered treasure trove of sites and artifacts. The city is the birthplace of Emporer Constantine, and the surrounding areas have some of the best preserved Roman ruins in Europe. It should be visited by thousands of tourists each month, but this is not the case, yet. The potential for Niš to capture a thriving tourist economy is almost limitless, and I only hope the bureaucratic issues restraining this process can be resolved so that this part of the world can shine as it ought to.

Niš is home to one of Serbia’s famous Banjas. Banjas have been important to the Slavic people in the Balkans for hundreds of years. They are places of greenery and rejuvenation, often found by a national park or a hot spring with mineral properties. People travel all across the country to visit different Banjas for their health benefits and each one is unique in terms of what it offers.

During summer, Niš is taken over by revelers from Serbia and abroad for the Jazz music festival “Nišville.” Much loved Serbian folk music headlines but you will also hear world-renowned jazz artists apply their craft in a fabulous vibrant setting inside the old fort.

Niš is blessed with an ancient history that pre-dates the Romans but its ties to the Empire cannot be understated. Mediana is a collection of luxurious buildings belonging to wealthy Roman citizens on the outskirts of Niš. The restoration is impressive and without funds from Europe, the ruins would have likely been lost to development. The ancient sites populating Niš are mostly under the soil. Hidden and preserved for future generations to bring back to life.

Where to eat…

There is a little alley the locals jokingly call “Little Skadalija” after the famous Belgrade eating strip. You do pay a premium because it is known as the place to be seen but the food is generally good for a variety of tastes and the ambiance is electric. As hilarious as it sounds, ‘the Pleasure Cafe’ is a great place for eats that don’t involve copious amounts of meat with a western twist. One of the more popular nightspots for locals is the Irish Pub on the canal, they make a variety of delicious meals and at night it is a beautiful spot to have a beer. Principe bar is pretty exclusive but it is worth going to if you want a cocktail and a good time.

While Niš isn’t a culinary paradise there are some real gems. If you’re up for a short drive, a great tip is a restaurant at the very top of a hairy mountain road outside of Niš called, Lovački dom Kod Šipe. The views of Niš from here are exquisite and they also make amazing goulash that brings me back every time.

What to see…

The impressive old fortress at the centre of Niš is a good starting point. The grounds are full of ruins and historical sites. From here you can walk the canal, or head through Republik Square into the centre of the city where Niš’s character shines brightly.

Although quite morbid, The skull tower of Ćele-kula is something to behold. After a pyrrhic victory by Serbian rebels at Čegar during the Ottoman reign, the Turks took revenge by constructing a tower from the decapitated heads of the slain Serbian warriors on the battlefield. The glimmering white tower of polished skulls stood on the road to Turkey as a warning to the Serbian populace about ever taking up arms against the Turks. The tower is well preserved and over the years, descendants of those entombed inside the tower have removed many of the skulls for a proper burial. The beautiful monument at Čegar in the plains outside of Niš is also worth seeing on a sunny day.

Bubanj memorial park – just outside the city limits there’s a strange looking monument on a hill but its purpose is significant. Three clenched concrete fists rise from the grass as a sign of remembrance to the tens of thousands of locals executed in the forest by the Nazis during the occupation in WW2. Make the trip. Also, if you’re interested like me, don’t forget to book a tour of the Nazi concentration camp inside Niš. It is well preserved by knowledgeable volunteers and they could use your support.

If you’re truly fascinated by the Roman presence, I implore you to make the day trip out to the UNESCO world heritage site of Romuliana, or, Gamzigrad. The Serbs are proud of what is happening at this remarkable fort. The love and attention the curator is pouring into Romuliana was visible from the moment you lay eyes on the incredible front gate.  https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/ShowUserReviews-g304105-d556690-r524483549-Felix_Romuliana_in_Gamzigrad-Zajecar_Central_Serbia.html#

What to do

Between trying every Kafana in Niš, walk. Walk everywhere and absolutely try the local hamburgers that you can buy off the side of the road. This was the most enjoyable aspect of Niš, nothing was too far and by strolling the unique streets it was easy to spot new things worth exploring.

Get a car and explore the gorgeous hills and fields outside Niš. Do not miss the winery of Malča a few kilometres outside of Niš. Malča, the winery, is inspired by the ancient Romans and not only is the setting stunning but they’ve created wine in four different ways as it has been done throughout Serbian history.

Stop, and have a chat with a local. They are a friendly bunch. Tell them how much you like Niš, especially to this man below. He may tell you-you are wrong, or that you are lying but he will be smiling on the inside.

If you go in summer, never fear. There are plenty of places to cool off, dip the toes, and oil up those bronzed bodies. If you want to have a dip, the public pool by the football stadium is sensational and has a multitude of slides and pools for all age groups. If you want a bit more of an exclusive experience, wealthy locals rent out their pools and private yards to the public for an entry fee. A word of warning for the dad-bod conscious: you may not want to take off your clothes as I have never seen so many six-packs or tight bikini bodies in my life…

Stroll the trails and peaceful gardens of Niška Banja and dip your feet in a mountain spring. Take a day to just wander through here in the cool and explore the gorgeous gardens and buildings left behind from the fall of Yugoslavia.

Take away…

The people of Niš are known for ‘Merak’, roughly translated it means ‘pleasure derived from the simpler things in life’. I could not find a more apt summarisation of this wonderful place that sits happily at the southern end of Serbia.

Signing off.

Photos of Čegar and Čela-kula credited to the masterful photography of Владан Станковић.