My insights, for what they’re worth…

I’d argue that Dubai is still trying to shed its “connector-flight” skin, using all its considerable resources to seduce foreigners with its magnificent glory, and it is doing a bang-up job. It provides tourists with a safe and relaxed taste of what the wider region has to offer and is an excellent introduction to Arabic cultural traditions and Islamic customs. It is a fascinating melting pot of nationalities with just 15% of the population native Emiratis and in many respects, it feels like a prototype of what the future might look like – a fusion of cultures and religions working toward prosperity. Dubai knows what it does well and doesn’t shy away from that. It constantly strives to innovate and “out-Dubai” itself, the bigger and more outlandish the better. It isn’t just words either, the Emirati’s have the will and the money to do just about anything, and their track record of delivering long-term projects in magnificent style is strong.

Where to stay…

We stayed in an apartment in Business Bay – a newer part of the city that is developing fast. We liked Business Bay because it was quiet and within walking distance to the main tourist areas of the Dubai Mall and the Burj Khalifa. As the stifling heat can be draining, you have the option to stay centrally near the Burj, or, choose a self-contained resort along the beach such as Atlantis, Burj Al Arab. etc. Barring the odd one out, the hotels in Dubai must maintain a seriously high standard of service and quality. You may well find that a four-star in Dubai is easily a five-star hotel elsewhere in the world so keep that in mind when tossing up between the two. If you’re in Dubai for the luxury shopping and higher-end eats, then I’d recommend staying close to the main mall, but if you want to sip cocktails by the pool 24/7, then a hotel by the beach is the way to go, but either way you’ll need to factor in transport costs if you venture out.

 

 

How to get around…

Uber, without question. By Australian standards, using Uber in Dubai is comparably cheap. $9 was our average fare for Uber black and the cars generally excellent, as were the drivers. I heard the metro is outstanding but we didn’t once need to use it as we found the convenience of Uber superior in almost all occasions bar peak hour. We quite enjoyed sun-screening up and walking to the Dubai Mall, but in the hotter months, this would have been rough. We noticed the roads aren’t designed with pedestrians or bicycles in mind, on many occasions we could not cross the road and had to walk the entire block just to get to the other side. Dubai is far bigger than you might imagine, spaced out too, often with huge vacant lots of sand between structures. The ritzy hotels you’ve seen in the movies such as Atlantis and the Burj Al Arab are a good 20-minute drive in traffic from the Burj Khalifa.

 

What to do

Desert safari. Get in a 4WD with someone who knows what they’re doing and go thrash the dunes. It kinda feels like a rollercoaster, except you’ll end up with sand in all the wrong places and incredible photos.

 

Once you’re finished on the dunes, have dinner under the stars at one of the many entertainment compounds outside the city. This can be organised by your hotel or if you have a Boffin handy. He organised a table at a higher-end compound with dinner, free Sheesha, fire dancing, and camel rides over the dunes. Delightful!

 

 

Why not climb the tallest building in the world? The Burj Khalifa. Well, there is no actual climbing involved but it’s better than saying “take the elevator”, isn’t it? We managed to swing the VIP experience thanks to Boffin, which included Arabic coffee and biscuits at the bottom, then access to the higher floors with mocktails and canapes waiting at the top. It is expensive for mere mortals, but VIP gives priority access to the elevators on entry and importantly when you leave. We skipped a line of at least 300 hundred people when we’d had enough of the vertigo-inducing views.

 

 

You’ll be gagging for Dubai’s gorgeous beaches after spending a few days in the desert heat. Some of the nicest beaches, like the one at Jumeirah, are private and do charge a fee. The sand is like the surface of hell itself so shade or a towel is advised. We paid $150AUS (discount for married couples) and got towels, sunbeds (important shade for my delicate porcelain complexion), an endless supply of bottled water. The entry price also came with food vouchers for the hotel restaurant. Lovely.

 

 

At first, we had 0 intention of going to Ski Dubai… enter Boffin . “Yes, you go to Ski Dubai today I think. You will like it.” This friendly little man paid for everything. Ski lessons, unlimited use of the facilities, premium equipment hire and the PENGUIN encounter experience!! He wanted to make sure we had a good time while he and Bobby Bossman went away and flogged some peasants. Jokes people.

 

 

Ski Dubai is an artificial mountain built inside a shopping mall and the longest indoor facility in the world. It is hard to believe unless you see it, and feel it. It has a chairlift, ski school, ski village, three huge slopes, and “kids areas” (really for scaredy-cat adults) with tube racing, toboggans, and the habitat! Truly as great as learning how to ski was, the highlight of the day was interacting with King and Gentoo penguins. The facility is world class and highly respected in the conservation community for treating these wonderful animals with the utmost care. They only take small groups of people through a day and the trainers are mindful of the penguins’ demeanour, attitude, and well-being at all times.

 

Where to eat…

In ten days of Breakfast, lunch, & dinner we seldom found a main meal under 18 Australian dollars. Tripadvisor is your ally here, use it. That being said, if you’re looking for an Indian food experience, I’d recommend going to the lovely Sharjah district for dinner. It takes fifteen minutes by Uber and the restaurants won’t break the bank either. Sharja is the huge Indian district of Dubai and here you can find some unbelievable food. The Egg restaurant was a highlight. Egg puns are printed all over this small eatery and the entire menu has egg in it…even the orange juice.

 

 

At night, eat by the lagoons at the base of the Burj Kalifa. You’ll be treated to an excellent meal and at certain times each night, you will see an insane water show punctuated by geysers.

For a special night, travel out a bit further out and head to the market precinct to the left of the Burj Al Arab at night. This area is utterly gorgeous to wander for a few hours before dinner and the restaurants are right on the waves. Grab a cocktail and watch the colorful lights of the Burj Al Arab.

 

 

What to see…

The Burj Al Arab. I knew it as the famous hotel I saw on a television where Roger Federer played tennis 100ft above the water on the helipad…I digress. A common misconception is that the BAA is a seven-star hotel, it not, however, it’s one of the finest five-star hotels in the world and is instantly recognizable as the hotel shaped like a sail. We found out that the hotel’s Christian architect designed it originally in the shape of a holy cross…The Emratis, oblivious to this fact, put the image of their beloved hotel on their number plates until the Saudi’s began to refuse them entry into their country for displaying the blasphemous cross. According to Boffin  when the Emiratis realised this was the case they altered the facade of the building.

 

 

The Dubai Mall precinct is located around the base of the Burj Khalifa. The mall is an endless shopping centre of the worlds biggest brands…now while that isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, so much has been interwoven into the shopping experience that you simply must walk through here.

They have an ice rink, cinemas, a virtual reality park, and much more. The outdoor areas with the man-made lagoons are breathtaking. Make the trip here at night when the Burj Khalifa comes alive with lights and a water show at certain times every night.

 

 

The old Souk (market) is worth a look. If you head here pay to go on a private boat ride up and down the canal to break up the day.

 

 

Jebel Hafeet is a mountain about an hour’s drive from Dubai. It is a popular spot for people to go during holidays for the natural springs that paint the base of the mountain green. There is also an outstanding wildlife park in the area.

 

Final thoughts…

Dubai is a bourgeoning nexus of commerce and design but as a largely contemporary city, I struggled to find genuine affection for the steel and glass as I would for the ancient places found elsewhere on the peninsula. Between the hazy skyscrapers, Dubai can often feel hollow, haunting even, like one day the desert could just swallow it up whole without a second thought like an Atlantis of the sands. I couldn’t feel its character at first but then we met Boffin and the people that grease the cogs of this city and it was there, it was there in the music and lights of the Burj Khalifa and the laughter and prayer of Sharja, but there was no doubt Dubai was lacking an old world charm. There were many aspects I enjoyed about our trip but I came away searching for the satisfaction I received when we left Cyprus. It is a warm feeling of “I want more of that!” We had so many wonderful and awe-inspiring moments in Dubai that I will remember forever and with a great deal left to see I would return given the chance.

Signing off